Reference Reviews

Lawrence Looks at Books

Encyclopedia of Body Adornment. Margo DeMello. 326p. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2008. 978-0-313-33695-9; 2007-16304. $79.95.

Social critics occasionally decry the spread of tattoos and body piercing among young adults as evidence of the decline of morality in our society. However, the reality is that these somewhat more extravagant displays of body adornment are simply recent manifestations of practices long prevalent in our culture. Circumcision, cosmetics, ear piercing, hair styling and jewelry are other widespread methods used to enhance our bodies for the sake of a cultural aesthetic. While particular preferences vary greatly, such practices are nearly ubiquitous among the world’s cultures, both past and present.

In this guide, cultural anthropologist Margo DeMello explores the worlds of body adornment and modification. Her survey includes the ornamentation practices of dozens of historic, native and modern cultures, from ancient Greece, Rome and India to Russia, Sudan and New Guinea. Over forty types of body adornment and modifications are described and explained. Coverage includes ear shaping, foot binding and scarification. Bodybuilding, fingernail treatments and tanning are presented as types of noninvasive adornment. However, the chief emphasis is upon types of tattooing and body piercing. The deeper documentation of these practices extends not just to entries on specific practices (14 types of piercing, for example), but also to biographies of notable practitioners, historic figures and discussions of selected cultures. Acupuncture, cosmetic surgery and other medical procedures are discussed in the context of body image and cultural aesthetics. Branding, castration and the use of coercive body modifications as punishment and cultural marking also are examined. Deliberate attention is paid to the transmission of ornamentation practices to Western cultures. Thus, many entries describe the historical venues for the introduction of tattoos, piercing and other practices to mainstream culture, from sailors, circuses and freak shows to bikers, punks and military personnel. Coverage of such sub-cultures includes transgender groups and the contemporary body modification movement. Each entry provides suggestions for further research and an appendix cites media, Web and museum sources of information. Intended as an introduction for the general reader, this guide will serve both academic and public libraries.
—John R.M. Lawrence